Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
Ordering slices in non-slice oriented towns can be tricky. Boston, even the Italian neighborhood known as the North End, is not a slice town. Sure there are places where you can buy slices—Ernesto's, Regina's at lunch, Galleria Umberto's Sicilians—but the North End is a sit down part of down. Pushcart looks the sit down part, but for $3 bucks and a tolerance for bad attitudes, you can get a massive slice of cheese pizza of the thin-crust variety. (Pepperoni is available,too, but apparently the "six other topping options" on the board are just to weed out regulars from newbies.)
The dough had some nice elasticity, but the crust on my slice seemed compromised. It had a good chew to it, but it took a lot of chewing for my teeth to cut through the exterior. Pure conjecture would lead me to believe that the dough had formed a bit of a skin, perhaps from sitting around in the kitchen after it was stretched into place. The flavor was well developed, but the chewing-through-paper sensation was a definite distraction. On a better batch of dough, the slightly sweet oregano-spiced sauce and blanket of chewy, leopard-spotted cheese would have made for a respectable slice. Despite the textural downfall, it was still pretty good eatin'.
A bigger drawback than the crust was the hefty dose of staffitude, despite being the only person in the joint at noon. I was assured that the pies were just cut when I asked if they re-heated. That didn't really answer the question, but it implied something along the lines of, "don't worry, you're slice will be warm." But when I slid the slice out of the bag to pepper it, it was clear that the slice and the oven needed a reunion. The pizza showed promise, but the overall experience was lacking.
117 Salem St., Boston, MA 02113 (map) 617-523-8123
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