"Mushroom pizza" makes me think of gray, slimy slices atop a Pizza Hut pie. But of course, that's not how they do it at Franny's ($18) in Brooklyn. It's a mix of royal trumpet, white cremini, shiitake, and Hen of the Woods mushrooms, tenderly cooked and distributed such that each slice tastes a little different (will this be a cremini bite or a Hen of the Woods one)? They're suspended on a cheese bed of mozzarella, a creamy and unassertive base against the sharper, saltier Grana Padano to liven things up. On Franny's airy, chewy, crisp-edged crust, it's a perfect pie for the winter.
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